G.D. Vajra can be counted on to make some of the most delicate wines in Piedmont. But instead of going straight for Barolo, guys like this often have interesting side projects that actually show more of what they’re trying to do with wine. I’m a big fan of trying the lesser known stuff, so when I saw this Riesling at Island Creek Oyster, I was curious. It was the least Riesling-ish Riesling I’ve ever tasted: precise, austere, glassy, crisp. Leave it to the Italians to show you just how peculiar a grape can be.