What to Drink Now: Winter Hideout

Testalonga Rossese di DolceAqua

Antonio Perrino is arguably the top producer of this tiny appellation. All winemakers in Dolceacqua have tiny production as a result of the small parcels of steeply terraced vineyards. On top of this, Antonio has all old vines in albarello that produce very low yields, but great grapes. Antonio’s Rossese is all in the Arcagna vineyard, considered one of the best sites in the appellation. He also has Vermentino which he makes with extended skin contact.

 

Terres Dorées Fleurie, Jean Paul Brun

Gamay from one of his oldest cru parcels on poor, sandy, decomposed granite soils over hard granite rock. This bottling is from the younger of 2 parcels, vines being around 40 years old and slightly shorter elevage. Essentially Burgundian, maceration is 3-4 weeks in concrete (the shortest of all his cuvees) followed by ageing 6-8 months in concrete.

 

Coenobium, Monastero Suore Cistercensi

Made by a convent of 70 cistercian monks on volcanic soil in Lazio, a relatively unknown/underappreciated region that generally produces lots of highly controlled white table wine for Romans. Giampero Bea (of Paolo Bea in Umbria) started advising in the early 2000s and this helped catapult their international recognition. He did little to adjust the ancient techniques of this cuvee, “the nun wine” which is basically zero intervention, or as little as possible. Pumpovers during spontaneous fermentation, 12 months on the lees, sulfur at bottling.

 

 

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