Marie & Vincent Tricot “Les Marcottes”, 2013

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If you can get your hands on this, you should. These are the grapes from their oldest vineyard, which were planted in 1964. Even their high-end cuvée goes through carbonic maceration, for a period lasting between 10 days and 3 weeks. Then the grapes are pressed, letting fermentation complete in large wooden vats called foudre, with wild indigenous yeasts already present on the grape skins. Then the wine is racked (transferred from one vessel to another, leaving behind the lees/sediment), and encourages malolactic fermentation to begin in old oak barrels. This really smoothes out the Gamay, which is less bright and acidic than others from Beaujolais, but rather round with a slightly oily film. But it’s deceptively poignant with a lot of aromatics, tight layers, even spice. I like.

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