Domaine Julien Guillot, Mâcon-Cruzille Cuvée 910, Clos des Vignes du Maynes, 2011

Unlike a lot of its friends in the natural wine world, this is really delicate, even austere, while remaining an enigma among Burgundy. It’s not like the red carpet Burgundies, but it’s not hicktown either. It’s actually a blend of red & white: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, & Gamay. The grapes are harvested, pressed and bottled by hand, by the original methods of the growers who began cultivating vines here  c. 910 A.D.

There is an incredible energy and balance to this wine. It must be that Julien Guillot, the wine acrobat, is so intuitive at understanding how nature works, adjusting each plot to the seasonal discrepancies and knowing that no two harvests are the same, and placing value in that. It can be sensed so clearly. I bet each vintage expresses itself so differently, it being a blend with nothing but wild yeasts. I know that’s said to be a bad thing in the mainstream wine critic/scholar game of rules, but to me its exciting. There was so much happening in that glass of wine, I’m pretty sure I didn’t taste all of it. Moaybe the previous year would help me understand this one better? And next year. And always.

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