Jacques Puffeney, Trousseau Cuvee “Les Berangers”, Arbois, 2012

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After trying the distinctive Poulsard by Jacques Puffeney, it took all my willpower not to throw my entire line of credit at a case of this, which I hadn’t even tried yet. And it didn’t disappoint- for anyone who wants something with more structure and less citric acid than Poulsard, this is the winner.

Trousseau is like the anonymous cousin that skipped school and became a Jiu Jitsu fighter but always had a soft spot for 17th century Italian paintings. And ditched all the family get togethers. Alternatively known as Bastardo (in Spain & Portugal), it turns out that its siblings include Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc (although it is a red varietal, there is also Trousseau Gris). The name Trousseau came to be after some spelling variations, and is ironically the same word used for a woman’s conubial accoutrements (bride to be lingerie, linens, etc). I like to think the similarity goes deeper than the way the grape “bunches” on the vine: perhaps its finicky nature, needing to be primed and plucked and cared for, makes it a hassle for most vitners who choose not to pursue her, save the Jura.

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